Ignite Your Thinking!
With thousands of installations covering millions of square feet, MDC is the trusted source for DRY ERASE solutions and we are excited to introduce FUZE™ Dry Erase Paint. Convert nearly any surface into a center for creativity and collaboration with FUZE high performance, low VOC, low odor dry erase coating.
Available in white, clear, custom colors, and Metallics, FUZE is easy to install, highly chemical and stain resistant, and backed by the most experienced sales & support teams in the industry. Use FUZE when you want to create spaces that invite teamwork, imagination and participation. Design flexibility and commercial durability make FUZE the perfect choice for corporate, health care, and education spaces, and more.
- Clear can be painted over any eggshell sheen latex based paint – regardless of color
- Isocyanate Free
- Low Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) content of less than 100 grams per liter as mixed
- LEED NC 2009 Compliant
- Longest pot life in the industry – 4 hours – for more efficient installation
- Can be applied by roller or sprayer
Want to learn more about FUZE? Check out our FAQs.
What is the yield which a painter would use when calculating the quantity to purchase?
The quart kit will yield 100 sq ft per kit and the gallon will yield 400 sq ft per kit. Each of these yields has been specifically chosen to reflect the method of application we require in the installation instructions. It is important to NOT stretch the product beyond the intended yield and you must use the approved underlying layers and application method in order to achieve this yield.
What is the dry time for the product? Dry time is commonly what we talk about when we ask “when is it dry to the touch?”. We would always suggest that while that may vary depending upon the temperature and the ambient relative humidity of the site where the coating was applied, you should expect 4-6 hours after application before you can touch the surface.
What are the recommended primers if going over new gyp board with the White product?
We would recommend one of the three acrylic primers which perform best overall:
Be certain to achieve a uniform coverage and a fully opaque coating before proceeding with topcoat application. In some cases, more than one coat may be necessary to arrive at that. You need to make that judgment to know when you have arrived at that coverage and opacity.
- Kilz Premium
- Glidden Gripper
- Sherwin Williams Multi-Purpose
What primer is recommended if going over an existing paint or an older plaster surface with unknown coatings already in place?
Then we would recommend you apply one or two coats of Zinsser BIN, an alcohol solvent, shellac based product. This would have the target of both effectively sealing the existing layers of coatings as well as providing a stable and opaque new layer to apply over. Just allow it to dry and then lightly scuff sand the coating (followed by wiping to remove all dust) so you have an adequate tooth for bonding. We would recommend you allow 4 hours of dry time for all solvents to dissipate out of this primer coating before you apply the new topcoat.
Is this a one coat product?
Yes, you are not applying individual coats after allowing one to first dry. Our installation instructions follow what has become a fairly common method of first spreading the initial roller full of paint around the surface, then adding a bit more during the back roll and balancing of that same area as you proceed. This “wet into wet” method is considered to be one coat.
What tools and equipment are required for application?
We would recommend that you have new buckets and grids, roller trays and liners, brushes, and roller handles for the application. You should not plan on cleaning up these tools for subsequent usage. You are better to think of disposal at the end of the useful life for each of them. If your painters are applying all day, then the use of appropriate masks may be smart.
What ventilation is necessary for the application?
We would ask that you be respectful of any occupants of the area or other trades. While this product has no isocyanates to be concerned with, the components do have a slight solvent content and do form alcohols when they have been combined and are drying out. Therefore, it is best if you plan for a full air exchange of at least once per hour. Often this can be achieved by setting up fans to blow the air out of open doors and windows to dissipate the buildup of any of those.
How do we clean up?
Acetone would be the recommended solvent to loosen any splatters or drips which may have occurred during application. The sooner you address them, the better. Test other surfaces before you assume they will not be affected by the acetone. We would recommend that you protect adjacent surfaces rather than attempt to clean them after the fact.
How do we address perimeters/cutting?
You will need to be the one to predict your end user and their expectations. If critical, we would recommend that you use a short nap foam or velour roller cover to tightly apply all perimeters against trim or ceiling grids or baseboards. We do allow you to use a brush to cut in those edges, but some end users may want you to use the shorter (3”-4”) rollers along those same edges to eliminate any potential for fingering. In most cases, if you cut first and then tightly roll with the supplied roller covers along those edges, you should find the result acceptable, but you must address which option is to be pursued with your parties who need to approve the final appearance.
How smooth will the final surface be?
As with any high gloss roller applied coating, you will see some stipple apparent. The correct amount of coating, coupled with the correct roller will wind up a gentle stipple which will yield the type of erasure performance desired and intended. If your end user demands an even more smooth appearance (again, just for appearance because the product will perform as intended even with that correct stipple), then spray application of both the primer and the topcoat may be prudent. Obviously, you may need to conduct a mock up to have this conversation in advance with all pertinent parties.
How do we store this material and what is the shelf life? Storage needs to be in a reasonable range. Do not store out of a range of 50-120 degrees Fahrenheit. This product does have a shelf life which is clearly identified on the can labeling so that you know the date of creation for that can and thus when it will expire exactly 12 months later.
How smooth do you want this surface?
We would always seek to have a level 4 Gypsum Association finish level to your surface. If new gyp board, that should be easy to achieve. If an existing surface, address any repairs and seal accordingly once you have arrived at that uniformly smooth surface required. In some cases, you may encounter strong cross lighting or down lighting which will highlight surface imperfections. You should critique those scenarios before you begin and in such cases, a full GA level 5 surface may be prudent. You need to discuss this option with all pertinent parties connected to your project in advance of application or after completing a mock up.
Do last minute spot patches need to be primed? Absolutely. And you may need to test them for moisture content if deep. So not assume that because your patch’s surface is dry that it has the correct moisture content to proceed. You should always have no more than 8% moisture content before you proceed to topcoat (or prime in this case).
Does the primer need to be sanded? Yes, use 180 grit to take down any debris or surface contaminates. This will both help to smooth the resulting stipple at this point, as well as to establish some tooth to the surface for bonding. Be certain to wipe all dust with a clean cotton cloth before applying the dry erase coating.
Mixing the components
How crucial is this step? Very. It is essential to the proper performance that you spend the time to correctly blend together the two elements. This takes 6 minutes of hand mixing as well as a few minutes to mix the larger can components before combining the smaller can into it. If you do not spend this time to properly achieve the needed integration, you will think you have blended it in just a minute or two, but you have not. You will see the surface glide of the product change as you enter into the final minute or two of that mixing timeline. This is an essential step, but there is no benefit to mixing for a prolonged time beyond this recommended time. Over activation will not benefit your application or the performance of this material.
What is the mixing ratio? The product is mixed as a consistent 4:1 ratio of large can to small. We caution you against attempting to field estimate this and thereby partially mix only SOME of the contents. If you miss that ration, performance will be impaired. Additionally, the shelf life of the opened contents will be shortened due to their increased exposure to air within the cans.
What is the pot life once mixed? Once you have completed the mixing, you will have a four hours pot life to finish the application of this material. Cover any unused portion to guard it from skinning over with exposure to air.
Can we cut in the entire wall perimeter before we begin to apply the large roller area? In some cases, yes. If your wall is shorter than 16 lineal feet across and 10 feet high, then you can complete your cut in (by brush or by short roller) if doing so immediately prior to the roller application of the full wall.
As we apply in the two step method, how far do we proceed when applying the initial area involved? You should first roll out about 8 lineal feet of wall, floor to ceiling in a medium rate of coverage. Then you will return to that sane area and backroll after dipping the roller again in order to have sufficient product to spread over that approximately 72 sq ft.
So we lay off in one direction for all final strokes of the roller? Yes, that appears to work best, so dip and backroll, then final roll to tip off in a uniform direction.
What type of wet film thickness will we wind up with in this manner? The product needs to be on the surface between 3 and 5 mils WFT, or wet film average thickness. You should target the midpoint of 4 mils to achieve the yield we are suggesting.
What is the workable time of the product once spread on the wall? That varies related to the temperature and relative humidity of your site environment, but in most average settings, you should have about 35-50 minutes during which you can go back and manipulate the surface and still have time to adjust what you see. Higher temps and higher humidity will shorten the workable time and accelerate the drying time.
When do we remove the tape? It may be best to remove it once you have completed the surface. Take care during removal and keep a consistent angle of being perpendicular to the line of removal. Your goal should be to maintain crisp edges along all removed edges and minimize and lifting off the primer. If you have any concerns during removal, use a snap off knife and blade to cautiously cut the edge of the tape to facilitate a crisp removal line at all points.
What do I fill in and where do I leave it? We want you to complete the blank space on the paper sign from the kit. This will define the first day on which the customer can actually write on the new surface. We ask that you make it one week from tomorrow. We also ask that you take some blue painters tape and post that sign in an obvious manner on a clearly identifiable adjacent surface.